We arrived in Ho Chi Minh City late at night, passed out, and had an early morning start for the Cu Chi Tunnels and War Remnants Museum.
The Cu Chi tunnels are underground passage ways used by the Vietnamese during the Vietnam War to evade the Americans. Because the Americans had destroyed the vegetation, leaving the land barren, the Vietnamese had to figure out a way to prevent themselves from being exposed and killed. People ate, slept, and travelled through the tunnels during the day, and only came out at night. The original tunnels are so tiny that most average North Americans can't fit inside, but they had a widened 100m segment nicknamed the "Eurotunnel" for visitors to experience what it may have been like to live in tight corners. The tunnel was quite claustrophobic, with narrow portions and areas where we had to climb vertically up or down to continue. Luckily, there were lights to guide us and exits every 10m for people who were overwhelmed in the confined space. We made it through the entire length, some parts holding hands, other parts coaching each other on deep breathing.
The Vietnamese made booby traps on the surface as well as in the tunnels for intruders. There was no light in the tunnels, but the Vietnamese had maps that helped them remember where each trap was located. We were able to see the various traps and how they worked.
Another interesting part about the tunnels was the ventilation system, which consisted of holes leading to the surface located at the base of termite hills. The Americans had dogs that were trained to sniff out these holes, so they could put toxic gas in them and kill the masses. The Vietnamese covered a portion of the hole with cloth mixed with shampoo to mislead the dogs, as this resembled the smell of Americans themselves.
There was a shooting range where tourists could experience what it's like to shoot a real gun. We shot AK47s, three bullets each, at empty bottles in the distance. It was scary, but exhilarating at the same time. We felt like we were in the Hunger Games. KE hit one of the bottles, and we each got to keep an empty shell as a souvenir.
The best part of the Cu Chi tunnel visit was a Vietnamese war veteran who taught us about the war and described his personal experience. He was a cute little old man, who had been shot in both the arm and leg (with scars to prove it) while fighting from the Cu Chi tunnels. He required both medical and surgical care, and spent three months recovering in another tunnel outside of the war zone. IN A TUNNEL!! And to top it off, he went back to help fight the war. What a guy!
Our next stop was the War Remnants museum, where we learned more details of the Vietnam War. The Austrian President was visiting the museum at the same time. There was a large delegation from Austria, with high security, body guards, and nice cars parked outside with both the Austrian and Vietnamese flag.
We didn't realize how extensive the war was or the enormous impact it had on the Vietnamese, even today. Apparently the majority of American citizens were protesting the war, and countries around the world had openly condemned the war as well. Millions of people died, and many more suffered needlessy. There was even a newspaper article about an American soldier who refused to return to the war, and chose prison over fighting. There were also articles about people who had burned themselves to death in protest.
There were many touching exhibits. For example, an American soldier had donated all of his medals after the war, with a note that read 'I'm sorry. I was wrong.'
One of the most emotional exhibits was on Agent Orange, a defoliant with excessive amounts of dioxin, a substance that causes cancer and birth defects. This was sprayed in various parts of Vietnam, and the after effects have been devastating. Birth defects range from neurological disorders, to missing limbs, eyes, and organs. The second and third generations of both the exposed American and Vietnamese, many of which are around our age, are still suffering the consequences of this substance. There was even a letter on display recently written to Obama from a 22 year old requesting aid for victims of agent orange. We stopped by a factory where victims of agent orange made handcrafted art, with the proceeds going towards helping their cause. It is inspiring what some of these disabled individuals have achieved in their lives, from being musicians, to artists, to teachers.
Tomorrow we fly to Cambodia, with the families and victims of the war in our thoughts.
EGF
Friday, June 1, 2012
Hurry hurry
The next day was the start of our three day Halong Bay excursion. Halong Bay is a UNESCO world heritage site, and one of the most visited natural wonders in Southeast Asia. We boarded a junk boat aka pirate ship from Halong City, were introduced to our crew and oriented to our cabins. There were three levels on the boat - the first had sleeping cabins, the second had the dining area, and the third was the sun deck. Our meals were all in the dining area, and consisted of mostly seafood - different types of fish, shrimp, squid, and mussels.
Our first stop on the boat was the Sung Sot caves. These were where Vietnamese soldiers would obtain shelters from the bombs dropped on Halong Bay. Many of them had inscribed their names on the rocks. It was very neat to see. We then went kayaking around the islands, followed by climbing up 416 steps for a beautiful view of Halong Bay. At the top, we saw a Chinese man and woman racing to the top while being filmed on camera. They were dramatic and over the top, as they were making some Asian TV show. It was amusing to watch.
We then had dinner on the boat, watching sunset on the top deck. We met a couple of Vietnamese and they taught us how to play Dala, the most common Vietnamese card game. It's a mix between mah Jong and rummy. We ended the night attempting to fish for squid. The only thing we caught was a sandal.
The next day we were at Cat Ba, the largest island in Halong Bay. We cycled through the countryside to a village, where we were supposed to hike to the hospital cave. But because it had just rained, we were advised to not go as this is when the snakes and leeches come out in the jungle.
Our next destination was Monkey Beach, an isolated beach that we had to ourselves until another boat arrived. We swam in the ocean, which was so still we could float on our backs without having waves crashing into us. The water was sparkling under the sun, and the horizon was dotted with islands as far as we could see. It was definitely comparable to Maya Bay, if not nicer.
The boat then took us to the main Cat Ba island, where many Vietnamese travel to for vacation. We watched sunset from a park bench along the harbour. After dinner, we searched the island night markets for our favorite dessert, mixed fruit with condensed and coconut milk. It was no where to be found, and instead, we were hustled by close to 20 Vietnamese women to eat at their respective food booths. So glad that never happens in Canada. There are only so many times you can say no before you stop acknowledging hustlers.
The next day we travelled back to Hanoi. We revisited our favorite food stalls, then headed to the airport for Ho Chi Minh City.
PS- oh yeah, we should explain our title. Our tour guide told us to hurry hurry for every activity, even if we ended up having to wait anyway. It got to the point where we placed bets on when the hurry hurry would come.
EGF
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Sistas from Another Mista
While wandering the streets yesterday, a couple of Black Hmong came up to us, asking us where we're from and how we knew each other. For jokes, we told them that we were sisters, and in response to the puzzled looks on their faces, we explained to them that we share the same mother but have different fathers (for those of you that don't know us all, one of us is brown, one is white, and one is Asian). It seemed like they believed us initially because they continued to probe further for details...
Our last day in Sapa was cloudy and rainy. We trekked to Cat Cat Village, then didn't have much to do in the afternoon because we were soaking wet. We ran into the same Black Hmong again. They recognized us, and called out "sisters with different fathers!!!" and we all had a good laugh. And that is how we became known as the multi-colored sisters in Sapa town.
We were sad to leave Sapa, because that also meant we had to leave Diego, our best tour guide yet. He had the funniest stories. When he was young, he had a pet cat that he loved and cared for. One day he came home from school, and asked his parents where his cat was. They replied, "you just had him for dinner". Poor guy.
The overnight train back to Hanoi was much less pleasant than the way there. The air con wasn't working, and we shared a 4-person train car with a stranger. We made it through the night though, arriving in Hanoi at 5am. It was way too early to check in. What to do in Hanoi at 5am? Go to church. We went to St. Joseph's Cathedral and listened to their morning choir practice. We then enjoyed Vietnamese coffee by Hoan Kiem Lake, while turtle watching (there is supposedly a 200kg turtle that lives in the lake). After, we ate traditional Vietnamese Pho in an alley restaurant for breakfast.
We went to 2 temples after that, followed by a prison that housed Vietnamese prisoners of war. There, we ran into a couple of people from our class. What a small world!! We decided to go for drinks that evening.
Partying in Hanoi was more difficult than expected. No one could properly guide us go any bars or clubs in the area. The locals spoke minimal English, making it even more challenging. We walked through night markets and restaurant streets before we finally found a restaurant that served cold Bia Hanoi. At $0.50CDN per glass, we had a great time with good drinks and good company. With us was also this Moroccan guy that our classmates had met earlier. Near the end of the night, he told us about a travel blog he was creating, and revealed to us that he had recorded the entire night, both audio and video, via the button on his shirt. (THE BUTTON WAS A VIDEO CAMERA. W T F). We requested to not have our "video" posted on the internet. As it was his birthday at midnight, we gave him birthday bumps in the middle of the street.
The fun came to an end when police came at midnight to enforce a curfew - they urged restaurants to close and ushered locals home. As a result, we couldn't find post-bar street meat to satisfy our craving. The stark contrast between the hustle and bustle of streets during the day/evening with the deserted streets at night is enormous.
Next adventure = Halong Bay.
xoxo
EGF
Our last day in Sapa was cloudy and rainy. We trekked to Cat Cat Village, then didn't have much to do in the afternoon because we were soaking wet. We ran into the same Black Hmong again. They recognized us, and called out "sisters with different fathers!!!" and we all had a good laugh. And that is how we became known as the multi-colored sisters in Sapa town.
We were sad to leave Sapa, because that also meant we had to leave Diego, our best tour guide yet. He had the funniest stories. When he was young, he had a pet cat that he loved and cared for. One day he came home from school, and asked his parents where his cat was. They replied, "you just had him for dinner". Poor guy.
The overnight train back to Hanoi was much less pleasant than the way there. The air con wasn't working, and we shared a 4-person train car with a stranger. We made it through the night though, arriving in Hanoi at 5am. It was way too early to check in. What to do in Hanoi at 5am? Go to church. We went to St. Joseph's Cathedral and listened to their morning choir practice. We then enjoyed Vietnamese coffee by Hoan Kiem Lake, while turtle watching (there is supposedly a 200kg turtle that lives in the lake). After, we ate traditional Vietnamese Pho in an alley restaurant for breakfast.
We went to 2 temples after that, followed by a prison that housed Vietnamese prisoners of war. There, we ran into a couple of people from our class. What a small world!! We decided to go for drinks that evening.
Partying in Hanoi was more difficult than expected. No one could properly guide us go any bars or clubs in the area. The locals spoke minimal English, making it even more challenging. We walked through night markets and restaurant streets before we finally found a restaurant that served cold Bia Hanoi. At $0.50CDN per glass, we had a great time with good drinks and good company. With us was also this Moroccan guy that our classmates had met earlier. Near the end of the night, he told us about a travel blog he was creating, and revealed to us that he had recorded the entire night, both audio and video, via the button on his shirt. (THE BUTTON WAS A VIDEO CAMERA. W T F). We requested to not have our "video" posted on the internet. As it was his birthday at midnight, we gave him birthday bumps in the middle of the street.
The fun came to an end when police came at midnight to enforce a curfew - they urged restaurants to close and ushered locals home. As a result, we couldn't find post-bar street meat to satisfy our craving. The stark contrast between the hustle and bustle of streets during the day/evening with the deserted streets at night is enormous.
Next adventure = Halong Bay.
xoxo
EGF
Thursday, May 24, 2012
We don't eat dog
After arriving in Hanoi, we went to the Old Quarter to kill time before having to catch our train north to Sapa. Our first stop was at a restaurant where we sat outside on child size plastic stools, and using metal toothpick-like utensils, we extracted snails out of their shells and ate them. Our next stop was at a restaurant where we again sat on child size plastic stools and at a child size plastic table (we swear this is the only furniture in local restaurants. KG barely fit.) We were unable to communicate with the staff who spoke only Vietnamese, and had to rely on hand gestures for ordering food (they also had no menus, so you can imagine how difficult it was). We have no idea what we ate, but it was delicious.
We walked around the town for awhile before heading to the train station. As soon as we got into our taxi, the rain started to pour hard, to the point where the streets became flooded within minutes, and we needed ponchos to keep our bags dry. The train platform looked as though it was right out of the movie Slumdog Millionaire, and KE proceeded to sing Jai Ho. We had no idea which train car was ours, but thankfully we had our new Vietnamese friend from France, D, to guide us to the correct one. Inside, we felt like we were on the Hogwarts Express and proceeded to look for chocolate frogs and Bertie Bott's Every Flavor Beans on the treat cart. It was an overnight train and we were in a four person room with a sliding door and bunk beds. We tried looking for Harry but he was no where to be found.
Before we knew it, it was morning and we were in Sapa! We had traditional Vietnamese breakfast out of a bag, which contained sticky rice and pieces of meat. We wasted no time and started our trek that morning. Our guide led us through the countryside, which was one of the most breathtaking landscapes we have ever seen. We can't even describe it in words. There were terraces of rice fields everywhere, mountains dotted with lush green trees, and streams that turned into waterfalls. What was initially a party of 5 tourists and 1 tour guide, became a party of 10 - the additional 5 were women from the Black H'Mong tribe who followed us from Sapa town all the way to Lao Cai (their village, a 3 hour trek). This trek was different from Chiang Mai's - there was variety to this one - we walked through corn fields, climbed over rice paddies, wandered through villages, played with children along the way, and spotted a bunch of animals. Goats, water buffalo, pigs, dogs, chickens...and seas of butterflies.
When we finally make it to Lao Cai village, our Black H'Mong friends pressed us to buy their handmade souvenirs. This is how they make a living. After lunch, we headed to the next village, Ta Van. Here, we met our host family. They showed us how to plant rice on the paddies. This was our most authentic experience yet. With our legs knee deep in mud, we struggled to navigate our way through the terraced paddies. CF kept destroying the mud walls that separated each terrace, while KE ran into a 4 inch unknown organism with pincers. She practically ran through the mud after seeing that. How many doctors does it take to plant rice? Clearly, more than two. We were so bad at it that we were kicked out and demoted to removing the mature rice plants instead. We did this for a good hour and were exhausted. Vietnamese women and children do it for more than 12 hours per day. This made us really appreciate what we have in Canada.
We saw kids playing with the water buffalo, and decided to join in. Except we couldn't actually get on the buffalo. Until our third attempt.
After a hot shower, which we weren't expecting, dinner was ready. Our host family cooked for us a traditional Vietnamese dinner consisting of peppered chicken and pork with vegetables, tofu in a tomato-like sauce, veggie spring rolls, and a variety of leaves picked from the garden. One leaf tasted like passion fruit. Another like lime. And others were minty. We wish we knew the names in English (or remembered the Vietnamese names!).
Oh, and one more thing. We had "happy water".. 5 times. This is what they call rice wine, and it's made locally in the village. Vietnamese men drink it like it's water. It wasn't what we were expecting, both in taste and strength.
After dinner we went to the bamboo bar. We figured it would be an easy ten minute walk, not a half hour scramble in pitch black through the mud. Our tour guide came with us and brought a torch, but it wasn't enough for 6 people. We were escorted by the family's dog, Moon, who is one of the lucky dogs in the village to live past the age of 1. Most are killed and eaten for dinner. But since Moon is very intelligent, he survived the slaying...for now. We hope he lives a long and prosperous life in Ta Van village.
The following morning we said bye to the family we stayed with and trekked through more rice paddies until we reached another village. Since it had rained the night before, the dirt on the path had turned into slippery mud and the walk up and down the hills became treacherous. We had to go very slow. D slipped and dunked his entire shoes and socks in the mud, along with part of his side bag. And he's a martial arts instructor.
After spending some time in the village, we took a bus back to Sapa town. We had Vietnamese food in an Italian restaurant for lunch. It was funny. And KE ordered a 'latte' from the menu, which ended up being a chocolate crepe. We spent the rest of the day walking around town, which reminded us of Banff. It's quite touristy and they sell a lot of North Face products. The difference being that these ones are fake.
Side note: while writing this blog post, CF said something ridiculous and KE laughed so hard that she fell off the bed. Which tipped CF over the edge into one of her fits where she laughs like an otter and can't breathe. Thought you'd enjoy that.
Tomorrow we trek some more! We're also planning to ride motorbikes to Fanxispan Mountain in the afternoon.
Xin chao,
EGF
We walked around the town for awhile before heading to the train station. As soon as we got into our taxi, the rain started to pour hard, to the point where the streets became flooded within minutes, and we needed ponchos to keep our bags dry. The train platform looked as though it was right out of the movie Slumdog Millionaire, and KE proceeded to sing Jai Ho. We had no idea which train car was ours, but thankfully we had our new Vietnamese friend from France, D, to guide us to the correct one. Inside, we felt like we were on the Hogwarts Express and proceeded to look for chocolate frogs and Bertie Bott's Every Flavor Beans on the treat cart. It was an overnight train and we were in a four person room with a sliding door and bunk beds. We tried looking for Harry but he was no where to be found.
Before we knew it, it was morning and we were in Sapa! We had traditional Vietnamese breakfast out of a bag, which contained sticky rice and pieces of meat. We wasted no time and started our trek that morning. Our guide led us through the countryside, which was one of the most breathtaking landscapes we have ever seen. We can't even describe it in words. There were terraces of rice fields everywhere, mountains dotted with lush green trees, and streams that turned into waterfalls. What was initially a party of 5 tourists and 1 tour guide, became a party of 10 - the additional 5 were women from the Black H'Mong tribe who followed us from Sapa town all the way to Lao Cai (their village, a 3 hour trek). This trek was different from Chiang Mai's - there was variety to this one - we walked through corn fields, climbed over rice paddies, wandered through villages, played with children along the way, and spotted a bunch of animals. Goats, water buffalo, pigs, dogs, chickens...and seas of butterflies.
When we finally make it to Lao Cai village, our Black H'Mong friends pressed us to buy their handmade souvenirs. This is how they make a living. After lunch, we headed to the next village, Ta Van. Here, we met our host family. They showed us how to plant rice on the paddies. This was our most authentic experience yet. With our legs knee deep in mud, we struggled to navigate our way through the terraced paddies. CF kept destroying the mud walls that separated each terrace, while KE ran into a 4 inch unknown organism with pincers. She practically ran through the mud after seeing that. How many doctors does it take to plant rice? Clearly, more than two. We were so bad at it that we were kicked out and demoted to removing the mature rice plants instead. We did this for a good hour and were exhausted. Vietnamese women and children do it for more than 12 hours per day. This made us really appreciate what we have in Canada.
We saw kids playing with the water buffalo, and decided to join in. Except we couldn't actually get on the buffalo. Until our third attempt.
After a hot shower, which we weren't expecting, dinner was ready. Our host family cooked for us a traditional Vietnamese dinner consisting of peppered chicken and pork with vegetables, tofu in a tomato-like sauce, veggie spring rolls, and a variety of leaves picked from the garden. One leaf tasted like passion fruit. Another like lime. And others were minty. We wish we knew the names in English (or remembered the Vietnamese names!).
Oh, and one more thing. We had "happy water".. 5 times. This is what they call rice wine, and it's made locally in the village. Vietnamese men drink it like it's water. It wasn't what we were expecting, both in taste and strength.
After dinner we went to the bamboo bar. We figured it would be an easy ten minute walk, not a half hour scramble in pitch black through the mud. Our tour guide came with us and brought a torch, but it wasn't enough for 6 people. We were escorted by the family's dog, Moon, who is one of the lucky dogs in the village to live past the age of 1. Most are killed and eaten for dinner. But since Moon is very intelligent, he survived the slaying...for now. We hope he lives a long and prosperous life in Ta Van village.
The following morning we said bye to the family we stayed with and trekked through more rice paddies until we reached another village. Since it had rained the night before, the dirt on the path had turned into slippery mud and the walk up and down the hills became treacherous. We had to go very slow. D slipped and dunked his entire shoes and socks in the mud, along with part of his side bag. And he's a martial arts instructor.
After spending some time in the village, we took a bus back to Sapa town. We had Vietnamese food in an Italian restaurant for lunch. It was funny. And KE ordered a 'latte' from the menu, which ended up being a chocolate crepe. We spent the rest of the day walking around town, which reminded us of Banff. It's quite touristy and they sell a lot of North Face products. The difference being that these ones are fake.
Side note: while writing this blog post, CF said something ridiculous and KE laughed so hard that she fell off the bed. Which tipped CF over the edge into one of her fits where she laughs like an otter and can't breathe. Thought you'd enjoy that.
Tomorrow we trek some more! We're also planning to ride motorbikes to Fanxispan Mountain in the afternoon.
Xin chao,
EGF
Oh my buddha
The next day was a travel day. We flew from Chiang Mai to Bangkok to Hanoi (Vietnam) on Bangkok Airways and then Qatar Airways. We love trying out different airlines, and so far Qatar is the winner. We have had some very intellectual conversations on this trip. here's a sample:
At the airport en route to Vietnam:
CF: "were going to have hundreds of thousands of gong after we exchange our money. It's going to be a gong show ha ha ha"
KG: (sarcastically) "I think that's actually the funniest joke I've heard you say in the last 3 years"
KE: "guys, I think it's dong."
CF and KG: "oh."
LOL
(FYI- dong is the currency in Vietnam, and 21,000d = $1 CDN)
At lunch:
Tour guide: for lunch, we're having elephant egg and fried rice.
(food comes)
CF: are these actually elephant eggs?!? (pondering look)
KG: mammals don't lay eggs.
In Koh Phi Phi:
Simon (one of the divers): what did u do last night?
Us: we partied on the beach at Slinky's.
Simon: ah, you let your hair down.
KE: (touches her hair, which is in a ponytail) hmm.. Not really. It's still up.
Simon: (confused look) care to elaborate?
Us: (silence)
While Trekking:
CF: hey KG, give me a hand.
KG: (reaches out her hand) come to papa!
Still Laughing,
EGF
At the airport en route to Vietnam:
CF: "were going to have hundreds of thousands of gong after we exchange our money. It's going to be a gong show ha ha ha"
KG: (sarcastically) "I think that's actually the funniest joke I've heard you say in the last 3 years"
KE: "guys, I think it's dong."
CF and KG: "oh."
LOL
(FYI- dong is the currency in Vietnam, and 21,000d = $1 CDN)
At lunch:
Tour guide: for lunch, we're having elephant egg and fried rice.
(food comes)
CF: are these actually elephant eggs?!? (pondering look)
KG: mammals don't lay eggs.
In Koh Phi Phi:
Simon (one of the divers): what did u do last night?
Us: we partied on the beach at Slinky's.
Simon: ah, you let your hair down.
KE: (touches her hair, which is in a ponytail) hmm.. Not really. It's still up.
Simon: (confused look) care to elaborate?
Us: (silence)
While Trekking:
CF: hey KG, give me a hand.
KG: (reaches out her hand) come to papa!
Still Laughing,
EGF
Another one bites the dust
We arrived in Chiang Mai and went to the Saturday Night Market, which consists of a plethora of stalls set up by locals selling food and handicrafts. We tried jellyfish and octopus sushi! And saw the largest cockroach we've ever seen (2.5inches) fly into the hair of an unsuspecting tourist. She screamed as a local picked it up and threw it onto the ground. The next morning was the beginning of our jungle trek. The three of us plus 5 Singaporeans and 2 Koreans piled in the back of a song tao to make our way north of Chiang Mai. The rural landscape was full of greenery, hills, and wooden huts. We trekked our way through the jungle to an elephant farm, where we got to ride elephants! We bought bananas to feed them, and as we were walking towards the platform, a baby elephant came running towards us and grabbed the entire bunch of bananas so fast from the Korean, she didn't know what hit her. It was quite amusing.
We then hiked for 5 hours through the jungle until we reached our destination - a small hut in the Karen village where we spent the night. There were two huts in the area we stayed, one in which the family lived, and the other for us to sleep in. The walls were made of wood, and the roofs with leaves interwoven with sticks. Both buildings were raised about a metre off the ground. The man who hosted us was a cute 4'6 scrawny fellow who made us Massaman curry and a vegetable noodle dish. Because we were so tired and hungry from the trek, everyone described each dish and drink as the best they've ever had. After dinner, we sat by the campfire as our tour guide serenaded us with his guitar. He knew a lot of English songs...from the 60s that none of us had heard of lol. Because we were so far out of the city, we could see the stars shining bright. Apparently the big dipper is known as the crocodile constellation in Thailand. In the Karen village there is no electricity, so we had to use flashlights for everything. We developed a buddy system for urinating...one person did their business while the other stayed on the lookout for people, giant bugs, or stray dogs.
So...back to those mosquito bites that we 'had under control'. Turns out they were sandfly bites (which was why our mosquito repellant didn't work) and scratching them spreads the the sting. They are also 10x itchier than mosquito bites. Thank god for the friends we made, who were equipped with calamine lotion to ease the burn (and were appalled at the appearance of our legs).
The next day we trekked for 2 hours and then went bamboo rafting! The rafts were made out of 5 long sticks of thick bamboo in a row. We started out standing on the raft, but our Thailand version of a gondolerian kept tilting the raft to either side that we were forced to sit down to avoid toppling over. For the majority of the ride, all we could hear was KE laughing and screaming as her gondolerian constantly capsized her raft. On our way back to Chiang Mai, we had the luxury of standing in the back of the truck to enjoy the beautiful scenery that northern Thailand has to offer.
After saying bye to our new friends, we went to the old city to explore the temples and history. The old city is surrounded by a moat and some of the remains of the old wall are still standing. There was a special Buddhist festival going on, and the streets were filled with vendors, and stalls selling incense, flowers, and fake money for the people to make offerings to the gods. The temples were packed with buddhists, and there was a large line to drop coins in clay bowls as part of their offering. There were also monks of all ages sitting in chairs, and people would kneel around them, provide an offering, and in turn receive blessings. This was done by dipping wooden sticks in holy water and shaking them over their heads.
We met up with one of CFs friends from elementary school for dinner, such a small world. We tried Burmese cuisine, popular in northern Thailand as it is so close to the border. We then went to the night bazaar, a market place that sold absolutely everything...even fake Tiffany! We also finally found mango with glutinous rice, a common Thai dessert that we had been looking for for awhile. Delicious!
Love and hugs,
EGF
Ps In Canada we say "oh my god." In Thailand, it's "oh my Buddha." LOL
We then hiked for 5 hours through the jungle until we reached our destination - a small hut in the Karen village where we spent the night. There were two huts in the area we stayed, one in which the family lived, and the other for us to sleep in. The walls were made of wood, and the roofs with leaves interwoven with sticks. Both buildings were raised about a metre off the ground. The man who hosted us was a cute 4'6 scrawny fellow who made us Massaman curry and a vegetable noodle dish. Because we were so tired and hungry from the trek, everyone described each dish and drink as the best they've ever had. After dinner, we sat by the campfire as our tour guide serenaded us with his guitar. He knew a lot of English songs...from the 60s that none of us had heard of lol. Because we were so far out of the city, we could see the stars shining bright. Apparently the big dipper is known as the crocodile constellation in Thailand. In the Karen village there is no electricity, so we had to use flashlights for everything. We developed a buddy system for urinating...one person did their business while the other stayed on the lookout for people, giant bugs, or stray dogs.
So...back to those mosquito bites that we 'had under control'. Turns out they were sandfly bites (which was why our mosquito repellant didn't work) and scratching them spreads the the sting. They are also 10x itchier than mosquito bites. Thank god for the friends we made, who were equipped with calamine lotion to ease the burn (and were appalled at the appearance of our legs).
The next day we trekked for 2 hours and then went bamboo rafting! The rafts were made out of 5 long sticks of thick bamboo in a row. We started out standing on the raft, but our Thailand version of a gondolerian kept tilting the raft to either side that we were forced to sit down to avoid toppling over. For the majority of the ride, all we could hear was KE laughing and screaming as her gondolerian constantly capsized her raft. On our way back to Chiang Mai, we had the luxury of standing in the back of the truck to enjoy the beautiful scenery that northern Thailand has to offer.
After saying bye to our new friends, we went to the old city to explore the temples and history. The old city is surrounded by a moat and some of the remains of the old wall are still standing. There was a special Buddhist festival going on, and the streets were filled with vendors, and stalls selling incense, flowers, and fake money for the people to make offerings to the gods. The temples were packed with buddhists, and there was a large line to drop coins in clay bowls as part of their offering. There were also monks of all ages sitting in chairs, and people would kneel around them, provide an offering, and in turn receive blessings. This was done by dipping wooden sticks in holy water and shaking them over their heads.
We met up with one of CFs friends from elementary school for dinner, such a small world. We tried Burmese cuisine, popular in northern Thailand as it is so close to the border. We then went to the night bazaar, a market place that sold absolutely everything...even fake Tiffany! We also finally found mango with glutinous rice, a common Thai dessert that we had been looking for for awhile. Delicious!
Love and hugs,
EGF
Ps In Canada we say "oh my god." In Thailand, it's "oh my Buddha." LOL
Saturday, May 19, 2012
Phi Phi Fever
The last few days have been crazy, so this post is long overdue.
In the last 4 days, we became PADI certified open water divers, experienced our first Thailand beach parties, had authentic Thai massages, explored the island, ate at local Thai restaurants, lounged on the beach, and got eaten alive by mosquitoes.
The 4 dives were at Viking Point, Pileh Bay, and Bida Nok, all beautiful sites on secluded islands a short boat ride from Phi Phi. We saw a diverse array of marine life including sea turtles, clown fish, a moray eel, and a reef shark. On one of the dives before we descended, our instructor pointed out a jellyfish that was near KG just as her hand reached out and grabbed it. She suffered severe second degree stings. We proceeded to save her life by urinating all over her leg. Just kidding (about the urinating part). Now that we're certified, we are very excited to experience the world of diving.
Phi Phi doesn't sleep. Bars and clubs in the town and along the beach are packed with locals and tourists with buckets in hand. We went to a reggae bar and watched Muay Thai boxing. Around midnight, everyone migrates to the beach where one of the bars, Slinky's, blasts house music until the wee hours of the morning. There is a random wooden pole at least 5 meters tall that drunk people would climb and dance on the top. It's amazing that we didnt see anyone fall off. There's also a skipping rope on fire that people take turns jumping through, often times burning their feet if they lose their balance. Parties in Canada have nothing on this.
Side note: partying outside equals millions of mosquito bites. KE counted approximately 200 per leg. She looks like she's suffering from some exotic skin disease. (but dont worry, we are doctors. We've got it under control).
Yesterday we took a long tail boat to different islands, including Maya Bay, where the movie "The Beach" was filmed. Lucky for us, we ran into Leo (DiCaprio, for those who haven't seen the movie). Getting there involved swimming through shallow water, climbing over rocks while trying to avoid crabs, and hanging onto rope for dear life to prevent the waves from pulling us into the current. We eventually made it though, and were rewarded with a breathtaking view. If we were to describe paradise, this would be it. PS. We we're joking about Leo.
We ate at many restaurants in Phi Phi, but our two favorites were the Orange House and the Thai market. They were filled with locals and the most authentic cuisine we could find. Pad Thai, Pad Ka Barau Gai, Tom Gam Yung, duck, panang curry, Massaman curry, Laab, fried fish, and Thai pancakes. We had it all! Through CF's Asian roots, she introduced us to jack fruit and dragon fruit. Delicious!
Today, KE decided she needed an exfoliation. What better way than paying a visit to Doctor Fish. By that, we mean submerging her feet in a aquarium of gravva, fish from hot springs that nibble away at skin. It was quite the experience, and KE came out of it with smooth silky feet.
Got a flight to catch. We'll post again from Chiang Mai!
In the last 4 days, we became PADI certified open water divers, experienced our first Thailand beach parties, had authentic Thai massages, explored the island, ate at local Thai restaurants, lounged on the beach, and got eaten alive by mosquitoes.
The 4 dives were at Viking Point, Pileh Bay, and Bida Nok, all beautiful sites on secluded islands a short boat ride from Phi Phi. We saw a diverse array of marine life including sea turtles, clown fish, a moray eel, and a reef shark. On one of the dives before we descended, our instructor pointed out a jellyfish that was near KG just as her hand reached out and grabbed it. She suffered severe second degree stings. We proceeded to save her life by urinating all over her leg. Just kidding (about the urinating part). Now that we're certified, we are very excited to experience the world of diving.
Phi Phi doesn't sleep. Bars and clubs in the town and along the beach are packed with locals and tourists with buckets in hand. We went to a reggae bar and watched Muay Thai boxing. Around midnight, everyone migrates to the beach where one of the bars, Slinky's, blasts house music until the wee hours of the morning. There is a random wooden pole at least 5 meters tall that drunk people would climb and dance on the top. It's amazing that we didnt see anyone fall off. There's also a skipping rope on fire that people take turns jumping through, often times burning their feet if they lose their balance. Parties in Canada have nothing on this.
Side note: partying outside equals millions of mosquito bites. KE counted approximately 200 per leg. She looks like she's suffering from some exotic skin disease. (but dont worry, we are doctors. We've got it under control).
Yesterday we took a long tail boat to different islands, including Maya Bay, where the movie "The Beach" was filmed. Lucky for us, we ran into Leo (DiCaprio, for those who haven't seen the movie). Getting there involved swimming through shallow water, climbing over rocks while trying to avoid crabs, and hanging onto rope for dear life to prevent the waves from pulling us into the current. We eventually made it though, and were rewarded with a breathtaking view. If we were to describe paradise, this would be it. PS. We we're joking about Leo.
We ate at many restaurants in Phi Phi, but our two favorites were the Orange House and the Thai market. They were filled with locals and the most authentic cuisine we could find. Pad Thai, Pad Ka Barau Gai, Tom Gam Yung, duck, panang curry, Massaman curry, Laab, fried fish, and Thai pancakes. We had it all! Through CF's Asian roots, she introduced us to jack fruit and dragon fruit. Delicious!
Today, KE decided she needed an exfoliation. What better way than paying a visit to Doctor Fish. By that, we mean submerging her feet in a aquarium of gravva, fish from hot springs that nibble away at skin. It was quite the experience, and KE came out of it with smooth silky feet.
Got a flight to catch. We'll post again from Chiang Mai!
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